Sicily

Sicily is the largest Mediterranean island and demands a minimum of five days to see anything meaningful. Our Sicily writing splits the island into four itineraries: east coast (Catania, Taormina, Etna, Siracusa), west coast (Palermo, Trapani, Erice, San Vito lo Capo), south coast (Agrigento Valley of the Temples, Ragusa, Noto), and the Aeolian islands as a separate week.

Palermo is the best single base for a first Sicily trip because the airport is well connected and the city itself is a full three-day experience between the Norman-era architecture, the street food markets at Ballaro and Vucciria, and the Monreale cathedral. Catania is the better base if you want to climb Etna or visit the Baroque towns of Noto, Modica, and Ragusa which sit in the southeast.

Sicilian food is genuinely different from mainland Italian food. Expect pasta alla Norma with aubergine, arancini as street food, caponata everywhere as a starter, cannoli siciliani filled to order, and the famous granita con brioche for breakfast. Our food guide covers the regional differences between Palermo, Catania, and the southeast. Budget 15 to 25 euros per person for lunch and 25 to 40 for dinner at a real trattoria.

Sicily is significantly cheaper than the mainland for accommodation, food, and transport. A direct-booking apartment that would cost 120 euros in Rome costs 60 to 75 euros in Palermo. Agriturismi in the Sicilian interior start around 70 euros with half-board included. The main cost is the car rental, which is essential for anything outside the major cities. Our driving guide covers the Sicilian autostrada which is mostly free, ZTL restricted zones in Palermo, and the ferry to the Aeolian and Egadi islands.