Sardinia

Sardinia is the second-largest Italian island and has the best beaches in the western Mediterranean. Our Sardinia writing splits the island into four main zones: the Costa Smeralda on the north coast for luxury travellers, the interior Barbagia mountains for culture and agriturismi, the Ogliastra on the east coast for wild beaches and quieter villages, and the southwest including Cagliari for city breaks and cheaper beach stays.

The Costa Smeralda is expensive. It was developed in the 1960s by the Aga Khan as a luxury resort destination and remains the most expensive Italian beach zone. Direct-booking savings here are meaningful because aggregator commissions on 400 euro per night rooms add up fast. Our Costa Smeralda guide covers the four main villages (Porto Cervo, Porto Rotondo, Baja Sardinia, Cannigione) with honest pricing and our picks for quieter direct-booking alternatives up the coast.

The Ogliastra on the east coast is our favourite zone for budget travellers and beach lovers. Cala Gonone, Santa Maria Navarrese, and Cala Luna give you the same clear water as Costa Smeralda at a third of the price, with small family-run hotels and agriturismi running direct-booking sites. The interior of Barbagia offers mountain agriturismi with full-board at 60 to 80 euros per person including traditional Sardinian feasts.

Driving is essential in Sardinia. The island has no rail network worth using and the buses are slow. Rental car costs 30 to 50 euros per day, fuel is expensive at around 1.85 euros per litre, and the roads are slow and winding outside the main arteries. Our driving guide covers the ferry options from Civitavecchia, Genoa, and Barcelona, as well as which airports to fly into for which zones.