Florence

Florence is the most walkable major Italian city. Everything you want to see is inside a one-kilometre radius from the Duomo, which means your accommodation choice is really about atmosphere and evening life, not proximity to attractions. Our Florence writing splits the city into five stay zones: the historic centre inside the old walls, Oltrarno south of the Arno, San Frediano for nightlife, Santo Spirito for food and artisans, and the quieter residential areas near the Cascine park for longer stays.

Oltrarno is our default recommendation for first-time visitors who want character without sacrificing walkability. You cross the Ponte Vecchio in the morning, spend your day in the museums, and retreat back across the river for dinner at 8pm when the day-trippers have gone. Santo Spirito square is full of artisan workshops by day and wine bars by night, and the trattorie here serve the real Florentine bistecca without the inflated centre prices.

The Uffizi booking strategy is the most valuable single tip in our Florence library. Book the first or last slot of the day online at least two weeks ahead. Skip the skip-the-line resellers and book directly from the official website. Combine with the Bargello sculpture museum, which is two blocks away and almost empty. The Accademia for Michelangelo's David can be booked the same day, the skip-the-line option is worth it, and early morning is less crowded than anyone assumes.

For food, avoid any restaurant with photos of dishes in the window or menus in four languages. The best Florentine trattorie are family-run, serve six to ten dishes, and close between 3pm and 7pm. Expect to pay 30 to 50 euros per person for a full dinner with wine, and stay away from tourist-trap pricing near the Duomo. Our budget eats guide lists ten legitimate neighbourhood spots under 25 euros per person.