Trastevere: 40 Places the Locals Still Love
Trastevere is the neighbourhood that makes people move to Rome. Cobblestoned alleys draped in ivy, ochre walls catching the late afternoon light, and the sound of someone's nonna yelling from an upper-floor window. It is, without question, photogenic. It is also increasingly touristy, which means the gap between a memorable meal and an overpriced disappointment is about 50 metres.
This guide covers 40 places that deliver. Every venue has been checked against real reviews and ratings. If you want the neighbourhood's history and character, read our Trastevere neighbourhood guide. This post tells you where to eat, drink, sleep, and explore.
Best Restaurants in Trastevere
Trastevere's restaurant scene is dense. Within a ten-minute walk you can find exceptional cacio e pepe, disappointing tourist menus, and everything between. The key rule: if someone is standing outside waving a menu at you, keep walking. The best places here don't need to advertise from the doorstep.
Nannarella (4.7/5, 43,032 reviews). Famous for its cacio e pepe, and rightly so. The queue can stretch down the street at peak times (19:30-21:00), but it moves. No reservations. The pasta is made fresh, the portions are generous, and the price is fair for the quality. Piazza di S. Calisto, 7/a, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
Otello (4.7/5, 17,690 reviews). Old-school Roman dining with white tablecloths, attentive service, and dishes that haven't changed in decades. The kind of place where the waiter remembers your order from last time. Grilled artichokes are a standout. Via della Pelliccia, 47/53, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
Tonnarello Scala (4.8/5, 18,902 reviews). Part of the Tonnarello family (there's another branch nearby). Known for reliable Roman classics at reasonable prices. The outdoor seating on the quiet street is the main draw. Piazza della Scala, 19/21, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
Da Vittorio a Trastevere (4.4/5, 3,160 reviews). A local institution since 1914. Seafood is the speciality here, which is unusual for Trastevere. The fritto misto and spaghetti alle vongole are consistently praised in reviews. Via di S. Cosimato, 14, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
Mimi e Coco Trast (4.7/5, 5,271 reviews). More casual, more modern, and popular with a younger crowd. Good for brunch and lighter meals. The avocado toast is surprisingly good for Rome. Via della Scala, 1, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
Bacco In Trastevere (4.6/5, 2,344 reviews). Traditional Trastevere trattoria with a strong wine list. The name means Bacchus, and they take the wine selection seriously. Pair the amatriciana with a Montepulciano. P.za di S. Giovanni della Malva, 14, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
Prosciutteria Cantina dei Papi - Trastevere (4.6/5, 3,044 reviews). Not a traditional restaurant: this is charcuterie and cheese boards, bruschetta, and Italian cold cuts. Perfect for a lighter dinner or aperitivo that becomes dinner. Great value. Via della Scala, 71, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
Meridionale Restaurant (4.7/5, 1,850 reviews). Southern Italian cooking in a Roman neighbourhood. Dishes from Puglia, Calabria, and Sicily that you won't find at most Trastevere restaurants. A welcome change of pace. Via dei Fienaroli, 30/a, 00153 Roma RM, Italy.
| Name | Best For | Price | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nannarella | Cacio e pepe | €€ | 4.7/5 |
| Otello | Classic Roman | €€ | 4.7/5 |
| Tonnarello Scala | Outdoor dining | €€ | 4.8/5 |
| Da Vittorio a Trastevere | Seafood | €€ | 4.4/5 |
| Mimi e Coco Trast | Casual / brunch | €€ | 4.7/5 |
| Bacco In Trastevere | Wine pairing | €€ | 4.6/5 |
| Prosciutteria Cantina dei Papi - Trastevere | Charcuterie | €€ | 4.6/5 |
| Meridionale Restaurant | Southern Italian | €€ | 4.7/5 |
Best Pizza in Trastevere
Dar Poeta (4.3/5, 9,506 reviews). The heavyweight. Dar Poeta's calzone with ricotta and Nutella is legendary (order it as dessert, not your main). The regular pizza is thick-crusted and generous, closer to Neapolitan than Roman. Always a queue after 20:00; go at 19:00 or prepare to wait.
Striscia la pizza (4.8/5, 433 reviews). Pizza al taglio (by the slice, sold by weight). Point at what you want, they cut it, you pay by the gram. Perfect for a quick lunch. The supplì (fried rice balls) are excellent too.
L'Elementare - Trastevere (4.5/5, 2,339 reviews). The modern take: sourdough base, quality toppings, craft beer on tap. More expensive than Dar Poeta but a different experience entirely. Good for those who care about dough fermentation.
Best Gelato in Trastevere
Gelateria del Viale (4.7/5, 2,312 reviews). A reliable local favourite. Nothing flashy, just properly made gelato with seasonal flavours. The pistachio is consistently cited as one of the best in the neighbourhood.
Gelateria Regusto (4.7/5, 521 reviews). Unusual flavours that rotate with the seasons: think rosemary and honey, or pear and gorgonzola. If you're tired of the standard chocolate-vanilla-strawberry rotation, this is your place.
Gelateria Alla Scala (4.6/5, 591 reviews). Classic and dependable. Located near the basilica, it's been serving simple, well-made gelato for years. The fruit flavours are especially good in summer.
Best Tiramisu and Pastries
Tiramisú Merisù Trastevere (4.4/5, 3,218 reviews). A shop dedicated entirely to tiramisu. Multiple flavours (pistachio, berry, classic), served in clear cups so you can see the layers. Takeaway-focused, perfect for eating while you wander.
Le Levain Roma (4.6/5, 1,913 reviews). French-Italian pastry crossover. Croissants that rival Paris, combined with Italian ingredients. The pain au chocolat and the seasonal fruit tarts are standouts.
Antico Forno Santini (4.4/5, 720 reviews). The local breakfast ritual: queue at the counter, point at a cornetto (plain, cream, or Nutella), pair it with an espresso, and you've had a proper Roman morning for under EUR 3.
Best Cafes in Trastevere
Antica Caffetteria Trastevere - Bar Stuzzicheria Aperitivi - Miglior Colazione Trastevere (4.8/5, 412 reviews). Claims to have the best breakfast in Trastevere, and the reviews tend to agree. Full spread of pastries, eggs, fresh juice, and proper espresso. Outdoor seating on a quiet street.
Caffé del Cinque (4.3/5, 913 reviews). Small, central, and always busy. A good pit stop between the main piazza and the river. Nothing extraordinary, but reliably decent coffee and friendly staff.
Ombre Rosse (4.5/5, 4,054 reviews). On Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, this is the people-watching spot. Order a coffee or a spritz, sit outside, and watch Trastevere's daily theatre unfold. The food is fine; the location is the point.
Bar San Calisto (4.5/5, 5,323 reviews). The legend. Possibly the cheapest drinks in central Rome. No wi-fi, no tourists (mostly), no pretence. Locals play cards at battered tables. The hot chocolate in winter is famous. If you visit one bar in Trastevere, make it this one.
CULTO • Trastevere (4.6/5, 427 reviews). Specialty coffee for those who care about extraction ratios and bean origins. The antithesis of the traditional Italian bar, and a welcome addition to the neighbourhood for remote workers and coffee nerds.
Best Wine Bars and Aperitivo
Milea art & food (4.8/5, 718 reviews). Art on the walls, wine in the glass, and small plates that punch above their weight. A quieter alternative to the louder bars on the main streets.
Essenza Wine Bar Trastevere (4.6/5, 730 reviews). Natural wine focus with a knowledgeable staff that can guide you through unfamiliar Italian varietals. The cheese and charcuterie pairings are well thought out.
Jerry Thomas Bar Room (4.8/5, 343 reviews). Not technically a wine bar: this is a speakeasy cocktail bar, and you need a password to enter. Check their social media for the current password. Once inside, expect expertly crafted cocktails (EUR 15-18), dim lighting, and bartenders who take their craft seriously. One of the best cocktail experiences in Rome.
Best Rooftop Bars
Vista Trastevere Roof Bar & Restaurant (4.1/5, 210 reviews). Panoramic views across Trastevere's rooftops and beyond. The sunset cocktail here is a proper experience. Prices match the view (cocktails EUR 14-18). Book ahead for weekend evenings.
Terrazza Les Étoiles (4.5/5, 2,567 reviews). At the Atlante Star Hotel, this terrace delivers one of Rome's most impressive panoramas, with St Peter's dome prominently in frame. Dress code leans smart-casual. Not cheap, but memorable.
Where to Stay in Trastevere
Trastevere accommodation ranges from converted convents to modern boutique hotels. Noise is a factor: this is a lively neighbourhood, particularly on weekends. Request a room facing the courtyard if you're a light sleeper.
Donna Camilla Savelli (4.6/5, 1,252 reviews). The standout. A 17th-century convent designed by Borromini, converted into a four-star hotel. The cloister garden, the frescoed ceilings, and the rooftop terrace overlooking Rome make this genuinely special. Mid-to-upper pricing, worth every euro. Book direct.
Relais Le Clarisse a Trastevere (4.5/5, 350 reviews). A charming smaller property set around a garden courtyard. Quiet despite the central location. Rooms are simple but well-maintained. Breakfast in the garden is a highlight. Book direct.
Horti 14 Borgo Trastevere Hotel (4.7/5, 447 reviews). Modern design hotel with a pool. Unusual for Trastevere. Good for families or anyone who wants hotel amenities beyond the basics. Book direct.
Trastevere Roma | UNA Esperienze (4.4/5, 542 reviews). Part of the UNA chain, reliable and professionally run. Contemporary rooms, good breakfast, and a location that balances convenience with relative calm. Book direct.
Hotel Santa Maria (4.9/5, 1,152 reviews). The courtyard breakfast gem. Orange trees, a quiet garden, and rooms arranged around a cloister. One of the most peaceful spots in the neighbourhood. Book well ahead. Book direct.
Grand Hotel del Gianicolo (4.2/5, 964 reviews). Up on the Janiculum hill, overlooking the neighbourhood rather than sitting in it. Pool, garden, and panoramic views. The trade-off: a 10-minute uphill walk to reach it. Book direct.
For more Trastevere accommodation, including apartments and villas with direct booking savings, browse Trastevere listings on Direct Bookings Italy.
What to See in Trastevere
Janiculum Hill (4.7/5, 25,148 reviews). The best free view in Rome, and it's not close. Climb (or take bus 115) to the top for a panorama stretching from St Peter's to the Alban Hills. A cannon fires at noon every day, a tradition since 1847. The walk up from Trastevere takes about 15 minutes and passes through pleasant gardens.
Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere (4.8/5, 22,263 reviews). Possibly the first church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary, dating to the 3rd century. The 12th-century golden mosaics on the facade and apse are stunning. Free entry, rarely crowded in the morning.
Fontana di Santa Maria in Trastevere (4.6/5, 1,509 reviews). The octagonal fountain in the centre of the piazza, believed to be one of Rome's oldest. At night, the illuminated basilica behind it creates one of the most photographed scenes in the city.
Piazza Trilussa (4.4/5, 193 reviews). Where Trastevere's evening social life begins. Named after the Roman dialect poet, this piazza fills with young Romans, students, and visitors from about 19:00 onwards. Buy a beer from a nearby shop, sit on the fountain steps, and join in.
Shopping in Trastevere
Trastevere shopping is independent shops, not chains. The streets around Via della Lungaretta and Via del Moro have small boutiques, vintage stores, and artisan workshops.
Handmade (4.9/5). Artisan leather goods, jewellery, and ceramics from local makers. Quality varies by stall, but the genuine handmade pieces are worth seeking out.
Mibo Trastevere - The Super Very Bellissimo store (4.7/5). Quirky Italian-themed gifts, cards, and souvenirs that are actually tasteful. The name tells you everything about the vibe: playful, colourful, and unapologetically fun.
18 mq vintage store (5/5). 18 square metres of curated vintage clothing. Small (the name refers to the shop's size), well-edited, and priced fairly for the quality. Good for unique pieces you won't find elsewhere.
Insider Tips for Trastevere
Transport: Tram 8 runs from Trastevere to Largo di Torre Argentina (connecting you to Centro Storico). It's the most useful public transport link for this neighbourhood. Buses H and 780 also serve the area.
Parking: Don't. If you have a car, park outside the centre (Parcheggio Villa Borghese or Parcheggio Gianicolo) and walk or take the tram.
Noise: Trastevere is loud on weekend nights, particularly around Piazza Trilussa and Via della Lungaretta. If you're staying here, bring earplugs or request a courtyard-facing room.
Restaurant rule: If someone is standing outside a restaurant waving a menu at you, that restaurant is not the one you want. Walk two streets further, find the place where locals are eating, and go there instead.
Best walk: Start at Piazza Trilussa, walk up Via della Scala to the basilica, continue to Via della Lungaretta, then climb to Janiculum Hill for the view. 45 minutes, mostly flat until the hill.
Read our other Rome area guides: Centro Storico | Vatican and Prati | Monti and the Colosseum | Navona and Campo de' Fiori
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